Paris

Julie and I recently went to Paris (with Maya, another dear friend) and we had some fabulous dining experiences. I thought I would share names and addresses of our most memorable meals so that you can use them as reference on future visits you have to this beautiful city. I know Katy travels there regularly. And Kaoru -- you were very missed on this trip, especially during the many meals shared with Ange. I’ve only provided the highlights below (although even those unremarkable meals which are not listed here would probably rate pretty high at home!)

As a side note, I thought it would be great for us to share dining recommendations from any trips we take in the course of this cooking project as I really enjoy visiting restaurants that have been recommended by friends. Enjoy!

Home cooking

If you can swing it, instead of staying in a hotel, we would recommend staying in a flat near one of the city’s many outdoor food markets. We would begin our day with a walk through our local market to pick up ingredients for dinner (and always stopped at this cheese shop above to pick up amazing blue cheese for our bibb lettuce, radish, and blue cheese salad which became a nightly ritual). We really had some amazing meals at home. There is a lot to be said about coming back from a long day of walking to a nice home cooked meal, especially given the wonderful fresh meat, fish and produce they have here not to mention the amazing bread and cheese!

Memorable meals

L’Ami Jean
27 Rue Malar, metro: Invalides
In the 7^th just off Universite, 01 47 05 86 89
Basque-french; inventive and delicious in a very rustic setting; our favorite meal

L’As du Falafel
34 Rue de Rossiers, metro: St. Paul or Chatelet
In the 4^th in the middle of the Marais
The most amazing falafel I’ve ever tried, no exaggerating. Sit inside and order some frites and lemonade. The meal is so amazing and the bill so cheap I’m sure you’ll return for a repeat visit (we did!)

La Crepe Dentelle
10 Rue Leopold Bellan, metro: Sentier, in the 2nd
After the girls left I had many solo crepe meals and this one was the best hands down. It was recommended to me by a friend who is from Brittany (where crepes originated). So he knows his crepes and he believes this is the best in all of Paris (and comes here for a few meals every time he is in town). Try the crepe with chevre and honey as the flavors will surprise and amaze you. And don't forget the traditional apple cider.

La Sourdier
4 Rue de la Sourdierie, metro: Tuileres
In the 1^st just off Rue Fauborg St. Honoree, 01 42 60 12 87
Classic bistro fare and an excellent way to relax after a day of shopping on this most elegant of shopping streets. Not too far from the Hermes store which for people watching is entertainment in itself.

Le Gare
19 Chausee de la Muette, metro: Muette or Passy
In the 16th, along Rue Passy just before the park
Another recommendation from a friend who used to live here. This is worth a visit for lunch if you are headed to the Marmottan Museum (the Monet museum which I highly recommend if you enjoy impressionist works.) The room is modern but elegant and they have a lovely fish of the day over steamed vegetables that provided me just the proper fuel for an afternoon at the Marmottan. If you love Monet do not miss the L’Organerie Museum, reopened in 2006 after a six year renovation. The waterlily canvases were so beautiful I was almost moved to tears.

Le Domain de Lintillac
20 Rue Rousselet, metro: Vaneau
In the 7^th near Le Gran Epciure and Le Bon Marche
Highly recommended by a friend who lives here, don’t miss this all duck restaurant if you like duck (huge assortment of duck dishes and foie grois)

Au Trou Gascon
40 Rue Taine, metro: Daupensil
In the 12th, 01 43 44 34 26
The best home cured Serrano ham I’ve ever had (and I’m not even in Spain!) and an amazing cassoulet that should not be missed. Extremely elegant and romantinc dining room. Come here with a loved one.

Le Soleil
109 Ave Michelet, metro: Porte de Clignacourt, 01 40 10 08 08
If you go to the huge antique market which takes place Sat-Mon at Clignacourt then this is where you should have lunch. We had an exceptional meal here of classic bistro fare (although stay away from their rum dessert which they say is famous; the chocolate molten cake is much better). If you like swap meets or antiquing we would highly recommend you spend a day at this antique market. It is unlike any other.

Memorable snacks

Lauduree (macaroons and tea)
16 Rue Royale, metro: Concorde
In the 1^st just between Place Concorde and Place Madeleine
Macaroons unlike you’ve ever tried before and a most elegant tea service

Poilane (bakery)
8 Cherche-Midi, metro: St. Germain des Pres
In the 6^th in the middle of a terrific shopping district
My dear friend Elaine who lived in Brussels and came to Paris regularly swears by the bag of butter cookies at Polaine. They are so good you can’t help but finish an entire bag by day’s end. Also not to miss is some of their amazing breads and apple tarts. Elaine posted the Poilane butter cookie recipe at www.cookingdiaries.blogspot.com

Bertillion (ice cream)
31 Rue St. Louis
On the isle of St. Louis just behind Notre Dame, 01 43 54 31 61
Probably the best chocolate ice cream I’ve ever tried

Mariage Freres (tea)
30 Rue de Bourg-Tibourg, metro: St. Paul or Chatelet
In the 4^th in the middle of the Marais, 01 42 72 28 11
Probably the largest selection of tea from around the world I have ever seen. Their scones were warm and delicious with butter and jam. The tea room was elegant and from a different era.

Angelinas (hot chocolate)
226 Rue de Rivoli, metro: Tuileres
In the 1st across the street from the Tuileres Gardens
Incredibly rich hot chocolate that they serve along with thick chantilly creme. Stay away however from their mont blanc (which they tout as being famous). It was terrible.

Memorable food and cooking shopping

Dehillerin (cook’s tools)
18 Rue de Coquillierre, metro: Les Halles
In the 1^st/2^nd just off Rue de Louvre
Amazing selection of copper and stainless steel pots, knives, baking tools, whisks and rolling pins. A gem of a store for folks like ourselves who love to cook.

A.Simon (serving tools)
48-52 Rue Montmarte, metro: Les Halles
Very close to Dehillerin
Dehillerin is where you can find kitchen tools but A.Simon is where you can find amazing cutlery, flatware, dishes, placemats, etc. including a wonderful selection of Laguiole steak knives. I had quite a field day here and at Dehillerin picking up holiday presents.

Le Gran Epicurie (huge artisinal food market)
In the 6^th near corner of Sevres and Babylone, Metro: Babylone
Great fun to walk around and pick up food treats to bring back home

L’Epicurie (boutique food shop)
51 Rue St. Louis on the Isle St. Louis
Another Elaine recommendation and a wonderful place to pick up gifts for friends and family